• 06May
    Categories: Interior decor Comments Off

    Wood floors have long been the top choice for American homes, and it’s not really hard to see why. Their classic look is one that lasts for generations and fits in with any décor theme, from old country to contemporary chic. But as any flooring guide will tell you, it all comes at a price: not only does a wood floor cost more, it also takes a good deal of work to maintain. Although most people find it worth the trouble, many end up spending more than they should in maintenance—and sometimes with unsatisfactory results.

    That’s why your first question when choosing a wood floor is whether you can handle the upkeep. For one thing, you may need to spend at least ten minutes a day sweeping up dust from the floor, and an occasional sanding or resealing to keep it looking like new. Otherwise, your wood floor will give in to regular use faster than you realize. You don’t need professional help to maintain a wood floor—in fact, much of the work can be done even by beginners. Here’s a quick maintenance guide to help you get started.

    Replacing damaged floorboards

    The first thing to remember in hardwood floor repair is that it’s hardly worth it to patch up a broken floor. Often, it’s more practical to replace the entire floorboard than repair the damage. Although it seems localized, simply patching it up won’t keep the damage from spreading to neighboring floorboards. To avoid bigger problems later on, replace your floorboard as soon as you see signs of damage. As they like to say, it’s better to act too early than too late.

    Older tongue-and-groove floorboards take a bit more work than newer ones, which are made to simply click in place. If you’re using the former, the safest way is to cut the board completely down the center using a circular saw. This reduces the risk of scratching the other floorboards in the process. Once it’s cut through, simply pry the halves away from the tongue and groove structure. While it’s open, check for other signs of damage before installing the new board.

    Regular sanding

    Wood floors always look their best when smoothed to bring out their natural luster. But unless it’s covered in carpet (which defeats the purpose), the shiny surface will wear out over time. That’s why you need regular sanding to get rid of the stains, dirt and mud that accumulate with constant foot traffic before applying a new seal. Anyone can learn how to sand a wood floor, so you don’t need to call in the pros when your wood floors start looking old. This is best done with a belt sander, which covers more surface area and creates a more even finish.

    Before starting, make sure to remove all the nails, screw heads, and other protrusions on the floor. The belt can snag on them and tear, or even destroy the machine itself. You can hammer them in or pull them out; if you choose the latter, make sure to close up the holes with wood-colored filler. Most floors require an initial sanding with coarse paper and a “finisher” using a finer belt, which smoothes out the imperfections.

    Fixing cracked floors

    Most wood floors will get some form of cracking at one point. This isn’t necessarily because it’s a weak material. The reason is that as temperatures change with the climate, the wood contracts and expands, and the limited space puts internal pressure on the floorboards. Some manufacturers “acclimatize” wood by subjecting it to extreme temperatures prior to installation, but this doesn’t completely protect against wood floor cracking.

    The best you can do is watch for signs of expansion so you can patch up the damage as soon as possible. If the timber starts to crease close to the edges, it’s usually a sign that it’s starting to expand. Once you see these signs, check the surrounding area for any source of dampness or moisture, such as a leaking sink, and seal it up before resealing the cracked part. Again, the earlier you see and fix the crack, the better your patch will work.

    Removing stains

    Stains are the most common form of damage on wood floors, and luckily, they’re also the easiest to fix. Most food stains can be removed with gentle scrubbing and sanding. However, when you want to remove paint or lacquer, you’ll need specialized paint strippers or thinners. If you don’t know how to remove paint from wood, you may want to ask a friend who does to help you, as the wrong products can cause permanent damage to your floor.

    When using a paint stripper, make sure to cover the underlying surface with newspapers of scrap fabric. The chemical content is strong enough to burn skin, and you don’t want anyone stepping on freshly applied layer. It also burns through the brush bristles, so use an old brush you can dispose of after.

    Tags: how to remove paint from wood | how to remove paint from wood | how to sand a wood floor | how to sand a wood floor | hardwood floor repair | hardwood floor repair | wood floor cracking | wood floor cracking | flooring guide | flooring guide

  • 28Apr
    Categories: Interior decor Comments Off

    If the walls in your basement are damp, they need to be cleaned.  Once they have thoroughly dried, you can treat them and paint them with a cold wash, or oil paint. If the floor is below grade, however, you should not use oil paint, even if the floor looks dry.

    If this is the case, you can treat with aluminum sulfate or sodium silicate. When applied properly, such treatments create a harder surface that is bright, consistent, and easy to clean.

    Better Lighting Facilities

    Extension wires make possible the use of portable lamps all over the basement. Frosted bulbs are the most efficient for basements, because they emit more uniformly dispersed lighting. For basement lighting, you can use similar kitchen or bathroom fixtures as used elsewhere. The same plumbing (toilets, etc.) may also be used.

    Installing a Ceiling in the Basement

    Although the omission of ceilings is common, a ceiling in the basement of the house improves the appearance significantly. There will be fewer corners and spaces where cobwebs and dust can collect, as well as protection from dust passing through the floors from rooms above.

    More importantly is the usage of tight-fitting fire-resistant ceiling materials, which will resist the spread of any fires in the basement to the other rooms in your home, as well as reducing smoke damage.

    If your basement is dry and well insulated, it can easily be built into quite the appealing room, simply by adding in a ceiling, cleaning and painting the walls, installing carpet, wood, or tile for the floor, and partitioning off any obstructions such as a furnace. It can then be used as a home spa, complete with hot tub or swim spa.

    Before installation of the ceiling, every hazardous opening should be sufficiently fire proofed. Examples of such openings can be seen near service pipes as well as between joists or studs, where they are joined to the foundation.

    If you plan to install working plumbing for a bathtub or steam shower, or perhaps a steam generator for a sauna, you should do this before fire proofing.

    Obviously, you will want to use non-flammable material for fire proofing. This could be plaster, cement, porcelain tile, gypsum block, brick rubble, and just about any other similar material. Whatever material you choose to use should be composed of enough fine substance to fill voids. You can support the fire proofing material with wood strips (no less than 2 inches thick) or by chicken wire.

    There are several different materials that you can use to build a ceiling. Plaster, gypsum board, or even furred metal can be utilized. It all depends on the taste of the homeowner and the limitations of the budget.

    Whatever you decide to use, any kind of material within 2 feet of the top of a furnace, or other object which emits such heat, should be protected, at least by a loose-fitting metal shield, arranged in such a way that an inch or two of space for air is reserved between the two objects.

    You can create this extra space through the use of small blocks of non-flammable material, either placed between metal and joists, or by hanging sheets of metal with hooks fastened to the joists. If you decide to use tin as a shield, make sure it has locked joints rather than soldered, as these are unreliable.

    Woodwork and plaster should be protected in a similar way. A covering should be placed within 4 feet of the sides of the heat source, which should extend four feet or more from the floor and three or more feet past the object on all sides. It is a good idea to have a professional come to inspect all installations.

     

    Tags: bathroom fixtures | bathroom fixtures | steam generator | steam generator | steam shower | steam shower | swim spa | swim spa | plumbing | plumbing | home spa | home spa | toilets | toilets | bathtub | bathtub | kitchen | kitchen | hot tub | hot tub | sauna | sauna

  • 17Apr
    Categories: Interior decor Comments Off

    The principal advantages of water stains may be enumerated and discussed briefly, as follows:

    ·     Water stains penetrate much more deeply into the wood on surfaces such as wooden bar rails, fireplace mantels, and ornamental pediment than do either oil or spirit stains.   The preliminary treatment for water staining is sponging and resanding. Sponging opens up the fibers of the wood, and sanding removes the broken fragments of cell walls that have become matted into the cell cavities thru scraping and sanding.

    ·     Water stains enter very easily into the open pores of wood that has been sponged and resanded. The wood substance also seems to be more permeable to water than to other solvents used in making stains.

    ·     Water stain powders are very soluble, especially in hot water. They generally are moderately soluble in cold water, but for deeper colors hot water is preferable. Some water stains are improved by straining through filter paper or cloth having a fine mesh.

    ·     The dipping process can be used safely with water stains, whereas dipping in a spirit or oil stain is dangerous, and greatly increases the fire risk of a building. Many furniture factories have large vats filled with water stains. Chairs, tables, plinth blocks, door toppers, corner guards, and other articles are completely immersed
    in the liquid for a short time, and then removed and wiped in order to secure as even a tone as possible.

    ·     It is very easy to secure darker or lighter shades and tints with water stains. For a lighter tone all that is necessary is to dilute the stain with water.  For darker shades more powder may be added to the stain. In case additional powder will not dissolve, one or more coats of stain may be put over the first attempt at staining, each application making a darker effect or tone. It is possible to secure very dark or deep effects with water stains.

    ·         The color of a water-stained article can be changed to a large extent by applying a coat of a different color over a stain that is not suitable or which does not match the required color. Mottled effects, or uneven tones of the same color, can be produced by adding color with a brush before the first coat is absolutely dry. A similar effect can usually be produced by wetting a water stained surface with a brush or sponge and then applying more color before the dampened surface dries out.

    ·         It is possible and safe to apply water stains hot, thus ensuring greater penetration.

    ·         The greatest possible variety in colors, shades, and tints is obtainable in water colors since the advent of water soluble coal tar dyes. Fewer colors, and less delicate hues, are obtainable in oil and spirit than in water stains.

    ·         Permanency, at least equal to that of other stains, can be secured with Dakalite and coal tar water stains. Some authorities state positively that coal tar water soluble stains are more permanent than oil-soluble colors of similar origin. A large proportion of all the stains used for wood are now made from aniline and non-aniline dyes which are coal tar products. The dye manufacturers recommend acid colors that are water soluble coal tar dyes for use in wood staining, especially for items such as wood fireplace mantels, wood fireplace inserts, and wooden bar rails; as they are far more permanent in light than are basic colors which are frequently very brilliant but, unfortunately, quite fugitive.

    ·         More transparent, clear effects can be secured with water stains than with any other kind, with the exception of some of the chemical stains, and possibly a few of the volatile oil stains. When water-stains are used, no visible pigments remain on the surface of the wood to obscure and spoil the beauty of the grain.  Clear, brilliant effects can be obtained with water stains which penetrate into the wood fibers and change the color of the wood to an appreciable depth.

    ·          Brushes are easier to clean and take care of when water stain is used, because they can be washed out in water. Brushes that are used in oil or spirit stains require cleaning in turpentine or alcohol, a more difficult and slower process.

    ·          In general, water-stains are cheaper, gallon for gallon, than any other kind; because the solvent, water, costs less than turpentine, alcohol, and other solvents used to dissolve oil and spirit stains.

    ·          Water stains dry quickly.

    ·          Water stains will usually penetrate through one coat of linseed oil, or will even darken a filled surface to some extent. The grain is not usually raised appreciably when water stains are applied to surfaces that have already been oiled or filled. Much less water stain is absorbed by the wood, however, under such conditions.

    Tags: wood fireplace mantels | wood fireplace mantels | wood fireplace inserts | wood fireplace inserts | ornamental pediment | ornamental pediment | fireplace mantels | fireplace mantels | wooden bar rails | wooden bar rails | corner guards | corner guards | plinth blocks | plinth blocks | door toppers | door toppers